Now
for something completely different.
When
I was working in Malawi 50 years ago I heard the comical story of the very
first British naval victory of WW1 that took place on Lake Nyasa. About 25
years later I met a contemporary when I was in Australia and we started to chat
about the event; He told me that in fact he had an original copy of the
eye-witness account which was written many years later and only published
in the Nyasaland Journal. He later sent me a copy which I recently dug out of
my archives.
How
he managed to get hold of the original is a mystery. However, I visited
Mangoche in 1990 and went to the Yacht club. When the Guen was broken up the
ship’s bell was hung in the club, and I guess all other memorabilia was also
kept there, including this account.
At
independence these were all ‘liberated’ and I was told that the bell is now
resident in a yacht club ‘somewhere in England. I guess thus was how the paper
came to be preserved.
I
reckon that it has seen the light of day in the past, as it may well have been
the inspiration for ‘The African Queen’ and ‘Shout at the Devil’. When my
late friend George Walker owned Elstree Studios I tried to persuade him to film
this, but he went pear-shaped first!
Although
the story is intrinsically funny, if Rhoades had not taken out the Weismann,
von Lettow-Vorbeck might well have won the East African campaign.
It
is quite a long story and I have edited it only to correct spelling errors etc.
It is worth persevering with.
*******************
I
should state at the outset that I have written this account of the 'naval battle’, which took place on Lake
Nyasa shortly after the outbreak of the First World War, entirely from memory and only in response to numerous
requests. I believe it to be substantially correct because the
adventure made a great impression on me at the time and it remains in my mind's
eye as a sequence of pictures; it is, however, possible that after all these
years some of these may be slightly out of focus, resulting in errors of
detail, in which case I crave the reader's indulgence.
I
was on ulendo north of Mount Mangoche in the South Nyasa district when,
on July 31st 1914, I received a telegram from Zomba ordering me to report
immediately at Port Mangoche for active service. This fort was at that
time an outpost of the King's African Rifles and was occupied by a Company (four sections
of 25 men) commanded by Captain Griffiths, a
very able soldier whom I was destined
to know very well.
When
war was declared on August 6th, Griffiths marched the Company to the Bar, headquarters of the Marine Transport
Department some six miles north of Port
Johnston, which automatically became an Advanced Base from the future 'front'.
We had a difficult time getting the 'artillery down
the steep and rocky slopes of the mountain as specifically ordered - it consisted of two muzzle-loading cannon, seven pounders, I
think. These, with one monster 9-pounder and two ancient maxims, comprised the
only fire-arms other than rifles with which we cheerfully
went to war.
At
the Bar we joined forces with two other companies of K.A.R. under Captains Collins and Portal, and sundry very
recently recruited details mostly commissioned and
attached to that regiment. The N.V.R. (Nyasaland Volunteer Reserve) was still being organized in Zomba and their uniforms
designed and issued} these consisted
solely of two yellow shoulder straps stencilled 'N.V.R.* which were sewn to the members' own clothing.
The
Marine Transport was a Government Department having the following European personnel: Commander Rhoades
(Lieut. R.N.R.), Chief Officer, with Tait as his Number One, Haynes, Chief Engineer, with Urquhart and Fernandez as his
assistants, and lastly, Bishop, clerk and storekeeper,
later the hero of the battle of Karonga. The fleet comprised
the Guendolen (so spelt) , Pioneer and Dove, in commission,
with Queen Victoria and Chauncey Maples under
charter.
Our
only frontier with German East African (now Tanganyika Territory) was west of
the northern end of the Lake, beginning at the mouth of the Songwe River, some
20 miles north of Karonga in the North Nyasa District which was at that time
the property of the Chartered Company. This five-man station Karonga, with normally two officials and three civilians, was
therefore the objective, whether for offence or
defence, of Nyasaland's tiny army, and as there was no road usable by wheeled
traffic and, incidentally, not half a dozen vehicles
other than ox-carte, its L. of C. must perforce be by way of the
Lake and this was unusable as long as any enemy ship, however lightly armed,
was at large.
The Germans had four ports on the northern half of the
Lake, two of them on the flank of shipping from the south. No-one was
surprised, therefore, when Rhoades received a telegram
from Sir George Smith, Governor .and Commander-in-ordering him to 'sink, burn or otherwise destroy the
Hermann von Weismann, the German 'gun-boat' though
the belligerency of this signal was somewhat tempered by its conceding Passage, which warned Rhoades that under circumstances was
he to risk the Guendolen.
The
armament of the Guen consisted of a 3-pounder Hotchkiss mounted in a sponson immediately abaft the break of the
fo'c'sle on the main deck and, if I remember correctly, two Nordenfeldts on the
boat deck. The Weismann had only a one-pounder but this mounted on the
fo'c's'le so that its field of fire more than
compensated for its lack of weight.
Our
3-pounder immediately presented two problems, the whereabouts of its ammunition and the lack of a gunner; eventually Bishop found the ammo, in boxes painted a Naval
grey and labelled by somebody "Spares", and Providence supplied the gunner: an assistant in the A.L.C. store at Fort
Johnston volunteered the information that he had been trained as a
seaman-gunner in the Clyde Division of the R.N.V.R., though he modestly
admitted that he was not very sure how much he had remembered of it all.
Unfortunately I forget the name of this gallant Scot but I think
he was usually called Jock.
It so happened
that while a student I had for a time been a P.O. in the London Division, R.N.V.R. and between us we were able
to evolve some sort of drill for the benefit of the beaming crew supplied by
Rhoades from among his "pirates". Jock promoted himself to Gunlayer.
Normally
the crew of the Guen consisted of two Europeans (Rhoades
or Tait, in command, Haynes or Urquhart, engineer) and many Africans, deck-hands and stokers; most of the
former were competent helmsmen who knew every inch of the Lake and could con
her with their eyes shut. When we put to see on this occasion, however,
both engineers were on board, Rhoades was in command with Jock as gunner and me
as surgeon, and we carried a section of askari as Marines
(pro tern) under the command of Beaumont, a P.W.D. official usually known as
Champagne Charlie, because he sported a monocle,
recently commissioned as Second Lieut. K.A.R. (Temp).)
It
must have been during the second week of August that we sailed from the Bar en-route for Nkata Bay where
Rhoades hoped to be able to obtain recent news of the
Weismann’s whereabouts from some of the Atonga plying to
and fro across the Lake in canoes. It was only after sailing (perhaps
when wooding at Nkudzi Bay) that someone commented on the
vulnerability of the main steam-pipe between boiler and engine where it rose in a graceful curve above deck. Haynes and his merry men remedied this, we hoped, by hanging some spare plates
round it at different angles designed to deflect
bullets.
Meantime,
I, probably inspired by a former visit to Nelson's Victory, was busy converting
the forward into a 'cockpit' for the reception of casualties. It
contained a large number of bags of rice (crew rations) which I
had piled from floor to deckhead after the manner sandbags
in the hope that they would afford me at least some protection
while attending the wounded on my camp bed erected under the
only light, amidships.
On
arrival at Nkata the most recent information obtainable was that three weeks previously the Weismann was at
Sphinxhaven. almost due east of Nkata across the Lake,
hauled out of the water on a slipway having some new plates
fitted. It seemed too much to expect that she could be in this
undignified position but Rhoades decided that the chance, however remote, must be taken, risk or no risk; as he said, this was the
deepest part of the Lake (2300 feet, 800 below sea
level).
As we
approached the land, now running dead slow, and turned north along the coast.
Jock called my attention, quite unnecessarily I may say, to the
multitude of campfires all along the shore, it looked as if the whole German
army was awaiting us. Actually they were heaps of
burning rubbish in the gardens.
The
bay of Sphinxhaven was made into a harbour by a peninsula of huge rocks
enclosing its southern part and crowned by a large boulder said by the more
imaginative to resemble the Sphinx, This cape afforded us useful cover as we
circled it but I for one had a sinking feeling below my belt
because it afforded even better cover for machine gun or other lethal weapon in
the hands of an enemy. One shot from the
veriest pip-squeak of a gun, would suffice to sink
us. The same applied to the Weismann, of course,
for neither vessel was intended for other than native warfare.
As we
cleared the point and swung towards the bay, the swell caught us broadside on
and the Guen, wide in the beam but shallow of
draught, began to roll, not really heavily but enough to embarrass an amateur
gunlayer. Then simultaneously a voice from
above rapped out the order 'Open Fire, 2000 yards', and the Weismann slid into view, a sitting duck, still on
the slipway. Jock belted away making a lot of noise
between duds, partly owing to some overestimation of the range and
partly, no doubt, to the rolling of the Guen, all the first shots that were no misfires soared away over the hills behind the target
probably 'scaring the lights out of' peaceful
villagers far inland.
The
ammunition was Victorian in date and about one in four was dud so that when Jock found that none exploded
during the period of waiting, before opening the breech decreed by the Lords of
the Admiralty, he soon dispensed with that formality altogether though he
barked at his crew if they delayed in dumping a
misfire overboard. Then without warning, just as Beaumont
had strolled over to offer advice Jock scored a hit on the slip, a shower of
splinters went up and everyone cheered,
That
was the only score - a bye, so to speak, for immediately afterwards a small white dinghy put off from the shore,
in which was a European clad in a single and a pair of shorts pulling furiously straight for the :Guen. Rhoades ordered
‘Cease Fire" and a blessed silence fell. It was his
drinking pal, the skipper of the Weismann with whom every meeting was a party.
The accommodation ladder was lowered and Rhoades descended from the bridge to receive him at the gangway.
The
Dinghy came alongside and. its infuriated occupant, having flung his oars into the boat, leaped to his feet
and shaking both fists above his head, exclaimed, ‘Gott
for damn, Rhoades, vos you drunk?
The
news that Der Tag had arrived had not yet reached
him.
Rhoades
invited him aboard and as he stepped on deck we onlookers
moved in behind him, forestalling any complication such as an attempted
escape. When Rhoades informed him rather apologetically
that he was a prisoner, one could sec his anger turn
to horror as he realised his fatal mistake? he seemed to shrivel and allowed Rhoades to usher
him up the ladder and
into a cabin without a word. We all felt very sorry for him, and Rhoades as well for that
matter.
The Guen was very
vulnerable where she lay at anchor close to
the shore and Beaumont picked the ridge bordering the "beach with his askari: if any troops
had happened to be on their way to
occupy the port they would now be advancing at the double to investigate the
cause of all the noise. Meantime Haynes and his engine-room staff were
swarming round the Weismann, inside and
out, dismantling every removable part, each being grabbed, passed to the
waiting deckhands and dumped aboard the Geun.
At the same time some
miscreants were wandering about in search of souvenirs which might otherwise fall into the hands of the locals after
our departure. I secured the clock
in the chartroom and a very good one it
proved to be. Every single African in the immediate vicinity of the Weismann had vanished at the first cannon
shot but the German engineer was
discovered under Ms African-type bedstead
in the grass shack in which he and his Captain had been living for
coolness sake. He offered no resistance when winkled out, and was put into the bag.
We returned to Nkhata
that afternoon in order to wood and also to
send a telegram from the Company's office to Chinteche. Rhoades detailed
Beaumont and me to draft the message and after
obtaining his approval to put it into code, using the old-fashioned book whose
contents were doubtless known in all parts of Europe. All I remember of
his signal is that the first sentence read, 'Weismann taken completely by
surprise', and that 'silver-grey' mean 'stop’.
We
learnt later that anything our message lacked in drama was supplied by Fleet
Street for it arrived during the black days prior to the Marne and was splashed as ‘Naval Victory on Lake Nyasa' even in the sober Times.